Lynn Youngblood: Taking care of your xeriscaped yard

The 100-degree heat definitely reminds us that summer is here to stay. People escaped into their homes and the land of conditioned cool air; but the plants, shrubs and trees outside remained firmly planted in the scorching sun. This is prime time for the true benefits of xeriscaping.

Xeriscaping is a landscaping technique in which some of the main benefits are low maintenance, reduction of water use, attraction of wildlife and low impact on the natural resources. Because xeriscaping uses native plants, there is no need for fertilizers or pesticides and the natural landscapes achieved improve property value.

This last of three columns will cover, efficient irrigation, use of mulches and appropriate maintenance.

As mentioned in earlier articles, during the planning and design of the landscape, you have already mapped out the natural drainage pathways and areas where water collects during rains. Through other phases of xeriscaping, steep hills and slopes may have had terraces added to reduce topsoil loss, and water run-off. Soil has been tested and amended as necessary for optimal plant growth. Plants have been grouped according to full sun, partial shade and shade. Native plants accustomed to the area are low maintenance and have superior survival rate. These have been selected according to blooming time and color. Turf size has been taken into consideration and grasses selected.

Now, what is the best way to keep your new landscape alive using the minimum of water and work?

Efficient irrigation: Like most landscapes, xeriscaping does require more water during establishment – especially for the first two years; however, after the plants have gotten hold of their new setting they should do pretty well on their own. During especially hot or dry spells, like the heat we have had this week, it might be necessary to add some extra water. So, while establishing the landscape (or, to add to an existing landscape if you just want to reduce your overall water consumption) use soaker hoses. By applying the water directly to the root area the plants get the optimal benefits of the water; runoff is reduced and there is very little evaporation. This one change alone in your gardening routine can dramatically improve your impact on the natural resources. For larger landscapes where soaker hoses may be impractical, drip irrigation systems are preferred.

Use of Mulches:  Using mulch effectively in the Midwest is one of the best kept secrets to successful gardening. Mulch helps to keep soil moist in hot weather, reduce weeds, and prevent erosion. Mulch comes in all forms and materials, but be careful here. In my opinion, not all mulches are interchangeable with all needs. For example, pine needles are a wonderful mulch for shrubs like azaleas (and yes, we have native azaleas) because pine needles help to raise the acidic level which azaleas love. Therefore, you would not want to use them on a plant that did not do well in acidic soil. Other mulches are shredded barks (such as cedar, or cypress), wood chips, pecan hulls, cocoa hulls (I love the look and smell, but they tend to be expensive), cotton burr (the outer husk of cotton, which I raved about previously as a great soil amender), and a mulch found right in your own backyard – composted leaves. Be careful with using straw as it can contain high amounts of weed seed. Rock, as mulch, can actually heat the soil and counteract the whole intention.

When I was able to have a vegetable garden (before living on acreage where there are wild things that would eat my whole garden!) I always wrapped soaker hoses around all of my tomatoes, peppers, and throughout the garden. Then, I would collect the grass clippings and use them as mulch right over the soaker hoses. This kept the roots cool and the water from the hoses was under the mulch which further reduced evaporation. My tomatoes never had cracks and would ripen so perfectly I swear they looked plastic. My friends would comment on how beautiful my vegetables were; I always said it was because of the way I watered and mulched them.

Maintenance: Providing maintenance on a xeriscape landscape is far reduced over a conventional landscape. However, this does not mean that there is no maintenance involved. Remember, maintaining anything will keep it in better shape and stronger to withstand adversity, whether that is drought, pests or other problems. There is no need to fertilize since you are using native plants and keeping up with the mulch will also add more organic matter back to the soil, adding nutrients. When mowing, remember not to remove more than one-third of the leaf at a time. Taking off too much will stress the plant. (This is also a rule of thumb with pruning or any cutting.) Try manually removing weeds before resorting to herbicides.

Now that you know all of the tricks to xeriscaping and all of the wonderful benefits, I wish you much luck in putting your knowledge into action and putting your green thumb to work. Happy trails!