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Many will approach the 2011 winter differently. Some are content to wait for what they call the spring bite because of the big snow drifts. Others go fishing and catch big walleye.
Veteran walleye fisherman love to bundle up in warm clothing and go fishing while most are watching television. Few can deny the remarkable taste of fresh walleye fillets from cold water. The trick is knowing where to look.
Winter walleye are structure-oriented and often hungry. Look for angled bottom structure that eventually meets a drop-off. I especially like rocky shelves or huge boulders. Then I drift across these areas with minnows – or salted minnows where live bait is not permitted. Walleye suspend in these areas in search of baitfish.
I constantly have to keep the motor running to stay on fish in windy conditions. Wind will push you past the fish. Winter fish are often staged on slanted areas and a few feet to the right or left can mean no strikes. The key is staying where the walleye want to be. I use quarter-ounce jig heads in calm water and 3/8-ounce or heavier in wind and waves. We change sizes until the best size is found. Winter walleye require an adequate presentation.
Most winter walleye are suspended on the bottom. A soft occasional lift off the bottom can draw many strikes. Sometimes hits come on the drop, making line control extremely important. Other times hits may be soft; no more than a light twitch or the line might suddenly start moving sideways.
VERTICAL FISHING: Start by moving to likely spots around rocks or weed beds and vertical fish. Minnows or nightcrawlers are dropped straight down and either suspended or brought up a reel turn every five minutes. The idea is to let that walleye study your bait or to hang it in front of its nose.
Try using bright gold or blood red hook for added attraction. We like to add a tiny piece of Christmas tree tinsel for more shine. Some even glue glitter to their hook or bait. Keep in mind that walleye can detect strange odors, so use glue with the least odor.
TROLLING: Trolling is an excellent winter technique if you go slow enough. I like to use the current for trolling or bumping baits, lures or jigs across the bottom. I simply turn my boat sideways and cast out two or three lines. Make sure your baits, jigs or lures are weighted well enough to stay on the bottom. Then watch each rod. Walleye often hook themselves because of this little motion.
Many will approach the 2011 winter differently. Some are content to wait for what they call the spring bite because of the big snow drifts. Others go fishing and catch big walleye.
Veteran walleye fisherman love to bundle up in warm clothing and go fishing while most are watching television. Few can deny the remarkable taste of fresh walleye fillets from cold water. The trick is knowing where to look.
Winter walleye are structure-oriented and often hungry. Look for angled bottom structure that eventually meets a drop-off. I especially like rocky shelves or huge boulders. Then I drift across these areas with minnows – or salted minnows where live bait is not permitted. Walleye suspend in these areas in search of baitfish.
I constantly have to keep the motor running to stay on fish in windy conditions. Wind will push you past the fish. Winter fish are often staged on slanted areas and a few feet to the right or left can mean no strikes. The key is staying where the walleye want to be. I use quarter-ounce jig heads in calm water and 3/8-ounce or heavier in wind and waves. We change sizes until the best size is found. Winter walleye require an adequate presentation.
Most winter walleye are suspended on the bottom. A soft occasional lift off the bottom can draw many strikes. Sometimes hits come on the drop, making line control extremely important. Other times hits may be soft; no more than a light twitch or the line might suddenly start moving sideways.
VERTICAL FISHING: Start by moving to likely spots around rocks or weed beds and vertical fish. Minnows or nightcrawlers are dropped straight down and either suspended or brought up a reel turn every five minutes. The idea is to let that walleye study your bait or to hang it in front of its nose.
Try using bright gold or blood red hook for added attraction. We like to add a tiny piece of Christmas tree tinsel for more shine. Some even glue glitter to their hook or bait. Keep in mind that walleye can detect strange odors, so use glue with the least odor.
TROLLING: Trolling is an excellent winter technique if you go slow enough. I like to use the current for trolling or bumping baits, lures or jigs across the bottom. I simply turn my boat sideways and cast out two or three lines. Make sure your baits, jigs or lures are weighted well enough to stay on the bottom. Then watch each rod. Walleye often hook themselves because of this little motion.
Try trolling floating Bombers and Smithwick Super Rogues in Fire Tiger and Chrome Black Back and Chrome Blue Back color patterns. Remember to use plenty weight about a foot from the lure to hold each presentation on the bottom.
Pay close attention while making S-turns when trolling. Bites seem to come on the turn – no matter if it is on the inside or outside turn – when I let my rod sweep back to allow slack line. The Long “A,” Rogue or other floaters will float up and trigger bites due to this action.
Most of these lures run 7 to 10 feet, so they’re pounding the bottom. When making a turn, the lure rises in the critical 3- to 4-feet strike zone. That little hesitation occurs where the fish are sitting on top of the reef. This is a good method for catching larger walleye.
CASTING: Most cast for winter walleye. I like to use a much smaller jig or lure during the coldest weather. We have caught many fine walleye while fishing for winter crappie with 1/80- or 1/100-ounce jigs that were tipped with euro larvae or a commercial brand or crappie additive.
Again, use a slow retrieve while making sure you keep each offering on the bottom. Twitch your rod tip on occasion. Sometimes this added move will draw strikes. The key is placing your bait in front of the walleye’s face, a feat accomplished by patience and lots of time in uncomfortable weather conditions. The couch and a football game are warmer, but not nearly satisfying as catching a 6-pound walleye on 4-pound test line.
LIVE BAIT: Minnows, leeches and nightcrawlers are extremely effective for walleye. Hook your leeches toward the end so they can wiggle and flop. Nightcrawlers are more effective with a shot of air with a hypodermic needle so they float off the bottom better. This is especially good in thick bottom cover, making it easier for the walleye to locate them. Minnows, especially salted versions, can be hooked through the mouth, extending the hook through their backs.
LURES: Most walleye are scattered around the bottom, but occasionally these large predators will chase a school of minnows or small perch. Crankbaits can become extremely productive when walleye are chasing forage.
Many northern fishermen prefer Rapalas or Rebel Deep Divers. But other effective types are available, including the Reel Image versions from Cabela’s. The key is color and a tempting wiggle.
Try to match what walleye are going after. For example, walleye chasing bluegill might like lures painted dark green, dark blue or black with an orange belly. Fish chasing minnows might like a silver- or gold-colored imitation. You might do well with orange- or pumpkin-colored lures where goldfish are present. I like darker colors in darker water and lighter colors in lighter water – especially for walleye.
Another important key of walleye fishing is the use of a fish or structure locator. Again, walleye are structure-oriented fish. A device to read the bottom is important to avoid fishing unproductive waters.
EQUIPMENT: A depth finder is more than a little helpful, but not necessary depending on where you are fishing. You will find submerged rocks or weed bed lines with a depth finder. Without it, you have to guess about prime locations or suspended fish unless you are familiar with the lake bottom.
I use medium-light tackle for winter walleye. A flexible rod with 4- to 6-pound test line is enough unless you are fishing in heavy current. I prefer 4-pound because of personal experience. Silver Thread Fluorocarbon gets more bites, even more so than changing to a smaller diameter monofilament line. Fluorocarbon lines are known for their virtual invisibility when under water.
Winter is an excellent time to catch walleye. Try the slower winter method for a full stringer.
Many of you likely have walleye in your freezer. Let me offer one of my recipes that are excellent with fresh or frozen walleye.
Walleye Chowder
3 to 4 pounds walleye fillets
1 bottle Lawry’s Herb & Garlic Marinade with Lemon Juice
1 large onion, diced
6 large potatoes, 1/2-inch cubes
1 stick butter
3 to 4 Tbsp. cooking oil
1/4 cup flour
2 16-oz. bottles clam juice
2 gallons whole milk
1 pint heavy cream
Lawry’s Garlic Powder to taste
Lawry’s Seasoned Salt to taste
Lawry’s Garlic Pepper to taste
Cut the fish fillets in quarter-sized pieces and combine fish and Lawry’s Herb & Garlic Marinade with Lemon Juice in a resealable bag. Refrigerate for 2 hours. Sauté onion in oil. Add enough oil to also cook the fish, sprinkling with Lawry’s Garlic Powder and Lawry’s Seasoned Salt.
Remove the fish and onions and set aside as soon as they are done. Don’t over cook the fillets or they will fall apart in the chowder. Boil potatoes in water with a dash of Lawry’s Seasoned Salt until tender (about 20 minutes). Set aside. In a large soup pot, melt butter (be careful not to scorch). Add flour to form a roux. Once the mixture has bubbled for a minute, add clam juice. The mixture will thicken. Add two cups of milk.
When the mixture comes to a boil, add cream and reduce heat. Add remainder of milk until desired consistency is reached. Be careful not to overheat, as the milk will curdle. Add Lawry’s Seasoned Salt and Lawry’s Garlic Pepper to taste. Let simmer 15 minutes, then add drained potatoes. Just before serving, add the fish and onion mixture.
